Showing posts with label 50mm prime. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 50mm prime. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Tricking the Light Meter

As many would know, film photography is so different to digital photography.  In some ways however it is similar as Adobe Photoshop is basically a dark room, though with film we cannot see or check the photos we are about to take.  

In this way you only know if it is a good or bad photograph once the film has been developed and then you can see how they turned out.  

On a few occasions I have been tricked by my light meter thinking that my photo was exposed correctly, but it simply was not the case.  The light meter inside the camera is designed for that purpose, to help you correctly expose your photo, right?

EHH - wrong.  But right...sort of, errr......

If one is not familiar with the way it works (such as myself) then things can go horribly wrong as soon as you start taking photos with several different light plains. 

For example if you are taking a photo of someone outside in the sun through the inside of a window, you light meter may give you incorrect readings.  If the bulk of the photo is on the inside of the room, the light meter will adjust accordingly and give you an incorrect exposure reading.  

Take for example this photo (enlarged from a scanned contact sheet, not an actual print):


(and this photo, girl falling asleep on bus)

In this case I wished to take a photo of a friend as she drove in her car.  A large portion of the photo was on the sky outside.  It was also a very bright day.  

When I activated the light meter to help me program appropriate camera settings, I followed its instructions without thinking.  

When I developed the film I was shocked to find that the photograph hadn't turned out quite how I planned it.  In this instance the light meter must have adjusted itself to compensate for the exposure outside of the car, making what was inside of the car way too under exposed.  This setting may have worked for a flat outside shot, but since there were two distinguishably different exposure settings, it did not. 

Unless this is the desired effect, I now understand better how to use my camera so that it doesn't fool me when I am trying to take photos like this. 

If I could re take this same photo, I would frame out the sunny sky (ie; point the camera at her chest/lap/face only) to trigger the camera's light meter into using the correct exposure settings for the inside (subject) before taking the photograph. When you have your correct frame, leave the settings as they approximately were.  You could experiment with changing settings slightly but without over compensating for where your camera wants you to go.  Now you should have a correctly exposed subject (and probably a way overexposed background).  But nevertheless at least now you can probably see your friend driving in her car. 

This my friends, is how you trick your light meter.  

Use at your own peril :)

Monday, May 7, 2012

Preparing For Portraiture + Self Reflection

In preparation for the photographing for my portraiture assignment, I have loaded into my camera Ilford HP5 Plus 400 speed film.  This is as I will be photographing in doors (inside buses) in possibly overcast, sun setting/night time conditions.  

I will shoot a roll of film with the aim to capture bus goers from behind and if possible with their reflection in the window - should they have a window seat.  With this idea I am wanting to explore what I can capture when public transport commuters have time to themselves. 


My series or portraits will hopefully convey an outsider sight into the world of another person - as I plan to capture them while they are unaware. 

I would also like to talk briefly about lighting and the advancements (or so I think) of my knowledge in this area.  The first is about key light and contrast.  

Here is  photo of my mum:


I really like the way the above photo has turned out.  The key light is coming from the left of frame (that left side is lit the best) and there are shadows on the right side of frame (her left side).  The light side is backed by a dark (wooden) background, while the shadowy side is backed by a bright light to contrast.  These slight contrasting details bring out the subject of the photo.  

NOTE: The scratches and irregularities are caused by the glass used to push down the negatives, not in the photo themselves - however it does give a nice effect.  

The picture below is also a nice use of contrast in black and white hues


The other thing I have realised is an important factor to photography is an eye light.  The picture below has a good use of an eye light which even though the picture is quite dark and not very well detailed brightness wise, it is still clear to what it is.  The eye light in her eyes also helps to bring some life to the subject and photo overall.  


Similar to this note is also this photo:


Use of shadow and contrast between surfaces of skin/wall worked out really nicely.  Though the subject doesn't have any kicker light, the back of his head is completely black, it still works really well as a photo especially because this is against white which helps bring it out more.  

I'll let you be the judge, but I have realised that light is probably the most important thing when composing shot.  Because without light - what's the use in having a subject?  Unless you are using longer shutter speeds.

See below for my contact sheet (Ilford HP5 Plus - 400 ISO Speed Film):